Serreta, or where the inhabitants of Terceira go every September

Serreta, or where the inhabitants of Terceira go every September „This weekend we’re going to Serreta, do you want to go with us?” – my friend asked me a few days ago. I wanted to.   I put on comfortable shoes, sunglasses, packed my backpack with food, water, sweatshirt and raincoat – and off you go. Serreta is a Terceiran Częstochowa (Quick explanation: Częstochowa is a Polish cult place where pilgrims go from all around the country every year). Every year, pilgrimages to Serreta take place. The inhabitants of Terceira wander to the sanctuary in Serreta from every part of the island. Some people even go around the island, making about 80 km on foot. Some people go to ask for something. Others to show gratitude for the past year. Others to meet friends, drink beer and eat bifana. (Bifana is the often mentioned bun with a cutlet, available in almost every tasca, i.e. a foodtruck). And to see the tourada à corda and pull for capinhas. This year, for obvious reasons, no great festival was organized. Usually there are tascas, music and fireworks. This year – only pilgrims wandering the streets of Terceira throughout the week. And a man with hand sanitizer at the entrance to the church. Nossa Senhora dos Milagres – Our Lady of Miracles In the Azores and in Portugal, Nossa Senhora dos Milagres, or Our Lady of Miracles, is highly revered. There is a sanctuary named after her in Serreta. There is a painting under the same invocation. It is said that this painting saved a priest who was running away from danger in the 17th century. As a thank you for that care, the priest built a chapel in which he placed the painting. It was in the area of today’s Serreta. After the priest’s death, the painting was transferred to a church in the nearby village of Doze Ribeiras. This image served the Terceiran people, as did the image of Our Lady of Częstochowa (PL: Matka Boska Częstochowska) for Poles. In the 17th century, Portugal was involved in the war between France and Spain, and Great Britain. Terceira, a small island, was virtually defenseless in this war. Residents turned to Our Lady of Miracles with a request for protection. They promised that if the island did not suffer any attack from the enemy, they would organize an annual festival in honor of Our Lady of Miracles. What they did. Festivals in honor of Our Lady of Miracles The first festival of the Festas da Nossa Senhora dos Milagres was held on September 11, 1764. In 1842, the church in Serreta was built, the miraculous painting was brought back to it – and since then, the festivals are held regularly. And since 2006, when the church was elevated to the rank of a sanctuary, the holidays have been even more sublime. These are religious and secular holidays that blend in with the image of the island. On the day of my planned pilgrimage, a friend asked me why I was not staying on the beach any longer. After all, the weather is beautiful and you could „get cooked” at home. I replied, „Because I’m going to Serreta.” And it was all clear. Serreta is local code, everyone knows what’s going on.   Serreta connecting people Serreta Weekend is one of the biggest events during the summer of Terceira. It connects old and young, believers and non-believers, fun-oriented and calm ones. The phenomenon of Terceira is that you can really feel the equality of all people here. Festivals in Serreta are one of the occasions to experience this unity. There are no better or worse, they are all equally important and the equally warmly welcomed. Isn’t it the social bond that we want? The Azores Read more about Azores 2018-01-25 The Azores 10 places worth visiting in Terceira 10 places worth visiting in Terceira When I decided to describe 10 places worth visiting in Terceira, I thought: but there are many more places worth visiting here! Terceira is a small island (around 400 sq. m) but full of beauty. But I realize that not everybody has a privilege… 2018-06-04 The Azores Festas do Espírito Santo Festas do Espírito Santo – what’s that? Festas do Espírito Santo – the Holy Spirit’s festivities – are one of the most distinguishable Azorean traditions. Their history starts in the 17th century, when Holy Spirit’s cult appeared in mainland Portugal. Sources don’t tell about any specific date, they just suggest… 2018-08-25 The Azores Tourada à corda – bulls in Terceira Tourada à corda, or a story about bulls running on the streets I was with a Polish friend who was on Terceira on Erasmus, on a tourada. He spotted someone in a Legia shirt in the crowd (Legia is a Polish football team). He told me: „Milena, look, there’s a…

Capinha, tourada and bulls, i.e. Terceira tradition behind the scenes

I wrote recently that I took part in an event in which I didn’t expect to participate. Someone guessed it had something to do with bulls. That something – it was Festival de capinhas. Capinhas festival. It started with my friend João saying: „We have a capinhas festival on Friday, do you want to come?” To my surprise – I wanted to. I watched bulls running freely in the arena and capinhas, i.e. people who – as is used to say here – play with bulls. Including my friend João. I understood what so many Terceira people might see in such events. Adrenaline and emotions There is admiration for the bulls and for the capinhas. Adrenaline and emotions that go up even more when the bull jumps over the railings. Or when you see someone you know in the middle of the arena. Looking straight into the eyes of the bull running at him. I’ve already been to several Terceira traditional touradas à corda. (These are events where bulls run in the streets; I wrote about it in more detail in the article „Tourada à corda„). But it was my first time at the Capinhas festival. I even had to ask who the capinhas were, I didn’t know the word. I learned that capinhas are people who appear during the tourada on the way of the bull’s run and attract its attention. They annoy it, call out to another place. They use rags, umbrellas or hands for this. Yes, hands. Some people put them on the head of a bull and go around in circles with the bull. My friend João is known to fans of touradas as capinha After the festival, I thought you might be interested in what the „world of bulls” looks like behind the scenes. After all, many people come to Terceira because of the tourada! So I interviewed João and learned a lot of interesting things. How it all started We’re sitting down and starting talking. First, I’m asking João about his history with tourada and bulls. „I’m from Terceira, bulls are in my blood,” he’s replying. And he’s starting talking about the fact that as a child he used to go on touradas to watch his grandfather. His grandfather was a capinha, and he wanted that too. He was always curious what it was like to face a bull. Until the first time it finally happenned. „I went once – and it stayed that way.” I’m asking João what’s the role of capinhas during the tourada “Capinha’s task is to animate the tourada. Without capinhas, there’s no tourada. The bull runs back and forth on the street, nothing’s happening. People who like touradas also like capinhas and what we do. The role of capinhas is to entertain the tourada participants. I never thought about it that way. I thought capinhas go on tourada more for themselves than for the audience. And here’s a surprise. Though it’s undeniable that these are adrenaline-loving people come into this role. “We feel adrenaline. A flare shot – and you just feel it. We play with the bull, but it’s dangerous fun. We feel the breath of the bull close to us. It’s a danger, but it’s such a… good danger. „ To become a capinha you just have to want it And show up on a tourada. There’s no need to let anyone know in advance, tourada is an event open to everyone. However, many newcomers are turning to capinhas who are more familiar with the subject for help. The bull can weigh even a ton, it inspires fear and respect. Therefore, beginner daredevils are sometimes accompanied by capinhas with more experience. Tourists sometimes too, but it’s usually tourists who get hurt by the bull. Because they don’t know how to behave. And I would like to remind you (see the article „Tourada à corda„) that the insurance doesn’t cover damage caused by the bull. For your own safety, leave playing with bulls to people with more experience. The basic rule on tourada is safety Safety of people and bulls. Capinhas play with the bull, run around. But when they see that the bull is very dangerous, they don’t risk their lives. „This is not our livelihood,” says João. “We go on a tourada to have fun and entertain the audience, but we all want to go home. Professionals, for example, in Spain, are different. All their lives are bulls. We go to our work, leave it in the evening and go on a tourada. And we want to come back from tourada safe and sound. I’ve had four serious accidents, got hit on my head once, and passed out. The fewer accidents the better.” I’m asking about the bulls. And learning that capinhas and tourada organizers also keep the bulls safe. Some time ago, a bull would hit a wall with a horn, break the horn, and run on. Not now. Now in such a situation the bull is immediately taken from the street and cured. João also tells me that when capinhas see that someone in the public is putting the bull in danger, they react immediately and drag the bull away. “We want safety for the bull as well, not only for ourselves. The bull also has its rights.” I’m beginning to wonder how capinhas get prepared for touradas I’m hearing in an answer that their only preparation are possible „touradas” with cows – mothers of bulls. Grenadiers, or cattle breeders, want to know which cow will make a good mother for the next good bull. Good, meaning big and brave, which can be proudly exhibited on tourada. So they invite capinhas to such „cow touradas”. The capinhas train and the grenadiers learn which cow is worth investing in. The best bulls are selected for touradas Sometimes these are famous bulls. The ones who have already participated in many touradas and know how to react to capinhas and other people on the streets. At

Marralhinha – the most popular game in Terceira

When I met my friends for the first time after the lockdown, a marralhinha entered the table. I usually yawn at 23:00 and that night I was sitting at the game until 2am, and my friends finished the tournament at 5am. Yes, you are thinking right – marralhinha draws in. Fortunately, not like Jumanji (although… if you look at 2020…), but it draws you in! Marralhinha is a typical game from Terceira. I got to know it paradoxically in Lisbon, when I was returning from Poland after Christmas. (It was also the first time I felt how terribly cold it is in the houses in Lisbon in winter). My friends had a visit of their friends, marralhinha appeared on the table. A wooden „board” with pits, marbles – and the evening was endless. This is a game that evokes emotions A fighting spirit awakens in calm people. Everyone wants to win, everyone creates a strategy in their head. And changes it after each dice roll. Because it’s a game in which strategy is mixed with statistics. Whoever has lost, willingly stands up for a rematch. Whoever won, starts the next games even more willingly. And so until morning. Marralhinha is a traditional game of Terceira There are two versions of the story of this game’s popularity in Terceira. One says that it was brought from the United States by a Terceira emigrant – in a version slightly different from the present one. The second version says that a similar game was very popular in one of the regions of France and from there it made its way to Terceira. How it really was – maybe one day we’ll find out. Maybe not. The lack of certainty as to the origin of the game does not prevent the inhabitants of the island from passionately playing it. There was even an Association of Party Games in Terceira established! The association regularly (of course, apart from the Jumanji year, i.e. 2020) organizes tournaments in which up to twenty teams play marralhinha (it is played in pairs). It’s really a lot of people for Terceira. You can buy Marralhinha in almost any souvenir shop. Or directly at handicraftsmen, for example at various handicraft fairs (they are organized, for example, on the occasion of Sanjoaninas LINK and Festas da Praia). If you only have carry-on luggage, make sure you select a game size that will fit in your luggage. My friends ended the first party after quarantine with a clear division into winners and all the rest, which pretended not to care about the loss. I’m kidding. Partly. Because there were clear winners. But the rest had a good time too. Me too. Until sleep got me down, but that’s another story. In the meantime – the principles of marralhinha! If you accidentally bought it and didn’t know how to play it. Or if you got a marralhinha as a gift. Like my family from me. With instructions in Portuguese. One and a half year ago… Marralhinha – rules of the game (Original rules in Portuguese HERE. Below – translation based on the rules version available on 30th of July, 2020) Two 2-person teams take part in the game. Each player has 5 marbles (10 marbles per team). Each player rolls a dice. The player with the highest score starts the game. The second player to his right is second (turn is going counterclockwise). In order for the marble to leave the starting fields, the player must roll 1 or 6 on the dice. The first player of any team, once (s)he has placed his/her five marbles in the end fields, continues play by helping his/her partner finish the game. When a 6 is rolled, the player must move the marble and roll the dice again. If, after rolling a 6, he/she places the last marble in the end fields, he/she rolls again to help his/her partner end the game. The player moves forward the number of spaces equal to the number on the dice. (Example: if you roll 5, you move the marble of your choice 5 spaces forward.) To enter or leave the center of the board, you must roll 1 or 6 dice. The square in the middle of the board is to help players shorten their path to the end fields. The center of the board can be entered from any of the three corners next to the center of the board (furthest from the end fields). When leaving the center of the board, the player must move to the corner closest to his end fields. (Here is my comment: according to the rules I learned, theoretically, you can move to other corners – but it doesn’t normally pay off, because the goal of the game is to reach the end fields as quickly as possible for both players). None of the five marbles of a player may overtake other marbles of the same player on the board. After playing a dice and picking up one of his marbles, the player is obliged to play this marble, unless he/she would make it to the square occupied by his/her partner’s marbles. If a player rolls 1 or 6 on the dice and picks up one of the marbles in the starting squares, and the starting field is not occupied by his or her partner’s marble, the player is obliged to put the marble into play (put it in the starting fields). In order to move the marble, a player must count the pits on the board, risking that his/her move will be canceled in the event of a mismatch. If during the movement of the marbles, the player gets to the field occupied by the opponent, he/she must gently touch the opponent’s marbles, remove it from the board and place it in the opponent’s starting field. The next player in line must wait with rolling the dice until the previous player has finished his/her move. If they the dice before their

Andreia and the best snacks in Biscoitos

I’m going to the booth and I can see that Andreia is smiling at me from afar. And she comments to her neighbour: „Do you know that I was in Poland without leaving Terceira?” Andreia is a very nice owner of a booth with local delicacies in Biscoitos. Third booth, counting from the bathing area. Everyone knows her there. They come to her to buy boiled corn, caramels, roasted peanuts or donuts. And for a good word and a smile that she gladly shares with everyone. I met her over three years ago. She always greets me with a smile and asks me how I feel. This time she’s noticing me and commenting to her neighbor: „Do you know that I was in Poland without leaving Terceira?” And she’s saying that one day a tourist came to her and said that they knew her in Poland. And he showed her a photo of her that I shared on the Facebook and on the Instagram. „See, you are famous in Poland!” – I’m starting to laugh. And I’m gettting an idea to interview Andreia. And write an article based on it. In the article you can say a lot more than in a short post on social media. So I’m going there on Monday morning with a list of questions and a charged phone, and I’m asking what she thinks about this idea. There is a mixture of joy and embarrassment on Andrea’s face. We’re sitting on the steps in front of the booth and starting talking. How did it start? 13 years ago Andreia went to the Feast of Emigrants (a large party in the center of Terceira) to sell boiled corn. But it was almost constantly raining, so she didn’t sell everything. Her dad gave her an idea that she could go with this sweet corn to the bathing area in Biscoitos. „Maybe you’re lucky there,” he said. And she was lucky. Andreia went to the bathing area in Biscoitos and stayed there. At the beginning, she shared her booth with a few men who didn’t quite accept a woman who’d be a business owner. They had some frictions, but in the end they learned to function with each other. Each of them was selling their own products. Andreia started with boiled corn, coscorões (one of the traditional carnival sweets) and roasted peanuts in caramel. With time, she added more products: pickles, vegetables and fruits from her garden, cupcakes. After about 5-6 years, she began selling donuts, which everyone loves so much today. With time, she also stayed alone in the booth, without the men that I mentioned earlier. The only men who occasionally appear in her booth on the salesman’s side are her husband and son. Business was developing slowly First, Biscoitos residents would come to Andrea. Satisfied, they talked about her products to their friends. Gradually, therefore, more and more inhabitants of the island began to appear at her booth. They came to Biscoitos for a walk, to spend a free afternoon with their family. They were glad that they could snack something good. Tourism was also gradually developing on the island. The number of tourists was increasing from year to year until 2019. (Although Andreia says that the best year in terms of business for her was 2018). Whoever arrives on the island is delighted with its beauty, lush greenery, blue sky and ocean. And they want to come back, they want to visit other islands. „More and more people are discovering our paradise in the middle of the ocean,” says Andreia. And what can you discover in Andrea’s booth? For me, Andrea’s booth is a cornucopia. There are plenty of goodies from Terceira and those that are eaten on Terceira. What does it mean? That next to the traditional Terceira cupcake Dona Amélia there’s an American donut, also loved by the inhabitants of the island. Hungry people skip this part. Earth gifts At Andrea’s booth you’ll find all the „gifts of the earth”: potatoes, tomatoes, zucchini, green beans, garlic, plums, apples, bananas, watermelons, passion fruit, oranges, tangerines… There are different fruiting seasons on the Azores, so something fresh can be found at any time of the year. Snacks For lovers of salty snacks, there are different types of peanuts (e.g. with garlic), fried pain, chips, boiled corn, rissóis (a type of dumplings with filling, baked or deep-fried), empadas (something like stuffed patties). If you like sweet snacks, you’ll find at Andrea’s traditional Terceira cupcakes Donas Amélias, a whole selection of other cupcakes (e.g. coconut, almond or… bean), peanuts with caramel or cinnamon, American donuts with sugar or icing, cakes, tarts or cookies – cinnamon, lemon, coconut and other . There are also filhadinhos – typical sweets from Alentejo. And of course, caramelos, or caramels, could not be missing. For the islanders it’s a taste of their childhood. Sweets their grandmother used to make when other sweets were not available. Caramels are difficult to prepare, Andreia herself says that she had many failed attempts. The results of the first attempts landed in the garbage. Until she learned. Today, both children and adults are happy to leave her booth with their package of caramels. A little bit of the carnival Andreia also shares the taste of the Terceira carnival with locals and tourists. Carnival on Terceira is celebrated much more than Christmas. Various traditions and snacks are associated with it. The most important out of the food are three types of sweets: filhoses do forno filled with lemon pudding, filhoses fritas – with a taste similar to donuts, and coscorões – they resemble Polish faworki, they are thin and crunchy. Everyone eats them during the carnival. Jars Finally, Andreia also prepares pickles and other products enclosed in jars. You can find honey from local bees. Pickles from sea fennel, boiled quail eggs and various vegetables. Massa de malagueta, or hot pepper sauce, which is one of the most popular hot spices on the island. Andreia also

Five years ago

Five years ago I visited Terceira for the first time My friend took me straight from the airport to a trip around the island. Every 5 minutes I asked him to stop. I couldn’t stare. Everything amazed me. This was my first visit to the Azores I started exploring the islands of lost Atlantis from Terceira. I had learned about the island’s existence a few months earlier. And for a long time I wasn’t able to pronounce its name. When I came here, I thought I was crazy. I was flying to the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. To a small island. For 10 days. What will I do here for 10 days? Then it turned out that it was definitely not enough. On Terceira, for the first time in my life… Five years ago on Terceira I saw dolphins in their natural environment for the first time in my life. For the first time I ate octopus, snails, lapas (limpets) and cracas (barnacles). I was drinking vinho verde (green wine). I picked bananas in the backyard garden. I was riding a motorcycle. I watched bulls running on the streets. I was in the middle of a volcano. I visited lava tunnels. I took part in Sanjoaninas. I was drinking caipirinha. I washed ones again clothes that got wet while drying out. I was swimming in the ocean. I was walking along an empty riverbed. I drank wine in a local vineyard. Every day I asked what we would be doing the next day. And every day I heard it depends on the weather. I didn’t understand it. It seemed to me that you always had to have a plan. Today I know that it’s worth having a plan in the Azores, but later you need to adapt it to reality. Well… Not only in the Azores. Terceira was a discovery to me I saw a world different from the one I knew before. I saw that you can think differently. That you can smile at strangers. Enjoy what you have. Even if it’s not much. Even if I had never come back here – I would never forget this place anyway. The juicy colours of pristine nature would remain in me. The sound of the waves. Birds chirping. Human kindness. Ability to enjoy life. A visit to the Azores is an experience that leaves its permanent mark Of course, I urge you to see all the islands in the archipelago! But even if you visit only part of them, or maybe only one – you will come back home with a special mark in your heart. And I have a request for you – take care of this mark. Take care of beauty and goodness experienced in the Azores. Of respect for nature and for each other. Take care of it. Take a piece of the Azores with you to the world!

Easter in Terceira

This is my fourth Easter on Terceira You sometimes ask me what Easter on Terceira looks like. I will tell you that it’s quite similar to the one in Poland. It’s primarily a religious but also a family holiday. It’s time to meet in a large group, with loved ones. Paschal Triduum Easter is a religious holiday, the most important in the Catholic Church. So it is celebrated above all in the church. Maundy Thursday – memory of the Last Supper On Maundy Thursday, the Mass of the Lord’s Supper is celebrated. It reminds us of the Last Supper and the establishment of the sacrament of priesthood. The rite of washing the feet, in turn, evokes the commandment of love. At the end of the mass, the Blessed Sacrament is moved from the altar to another secluded place. Good Friday is a holiday in Portugal Also in the sense that it is a day off from work. Can you imagine my surprise when in 2017 I went on Good Friday in search of a sour rye soup to an international store and this one was closed? Can’t you imagine? Then try to find this sour soup on Easter Monday. Impressions will be similar. Yes, except that in Portugal no one heard about this soup and the international store was my last resort. Traditionally, Good Friday applies „jejum e abstinência”, meaning fast and abstinence. What do they mean? Fasting means limiting the amount of meals consumed. It is now said that you can eat one full meal and small amounts of other meals. Abstinence is the quality limitation of meals consumed, with an indication of avoiding meat. Fish are allowed. (It is interesting that, according to the Church in Portugal, abstinence from meat affects all Fridays of the year, but I haven’t met yet a Portuguese who would comply. In fact, I haven’t met yet a Portuguese who would even know this recommendation. But everyone is surprised that such a tradition is respected in Poland). On Good Friday, the faithful also try to maintain abstinence from other meals and activities that may please them. Good Friday is a day without a mass. Instead, the liturgy of the word and adoration of the cross as a symbol of Christ’s death take place. And late in the evening – Via-sacra, i.e. the Way of the Cross on the streets of the city or village. Holy Saturday – without blessing eggs In Poland, Holy Saturday is associated with the preparation of Easter eggs and blessing of baskets. In Portugal, the Azores, Terceira – there is no such tradition. Holy Saturday is a day of silence, without a mass. Only in the evening, after dusk, do the faithful go to the most important Eucharist in the liturgical year – the Paschal Vigil. The Paschal Vigil. consists, like in Poland, of four liturgies. These are: liturgy of light – a sign of joy; as part of this liturgy, fire is blessed; the liturgy of the word – 9 readings: 7 from the Old Testament and 2 from the New Testament, at the end a solemn Hallelujah is sung; baptismal liturgy – renewal of baptismal vows; Eucharistic liturgy – receiving the Eucharist. Easter Sunday is a time for loved ones On Easter Sunday, the church bells ring as a sign of the Resurrection of Christ, and families gather for a lunch. The traditional Easter dish on Terceira is lamb. And the typical sweet bread massa sovada with egg on top. No one has heard of vegetable salad, eggs with mayonnaise or sour rye soup for breakfast. Everyone knows though that Easter on Terceira is a time for the family. It’s time to meet with loved ones. And giving them chocolate eggs (amendoins doces) in various versions. And in large quantities. Here, too, children eagerly look for eggs and sweets hidden in the home or garden (caça aos ovos), here everyone is also happy to be with their loved ones. You visit family and friends. It’s time to strengthen bonds. Especially since the celebration ends on Sunday, on Monday you already have to go to work. It’s necessary to make up for free Good Friday. And then – Festas do Espírito Santo In fact, Easter on Terceira is an introduction to Festas do Espírito Santo, the celebration of the Holy Spirit. This is a typical tradition for Terceira, which is celebrated to this day. Interested? Read more about it below. And be sure to come see it live! This is my fourth Easter on Terceira Each one was different. Once I made a typical Polish Easter breakfast for my friends from Terceira. They were so surprised by the amount of dishes with eggs! Yes, yes, Polish Easter is full of eggs. I once had a Polish-Spanish-Italian breakfast and an opportunity to learn about the traditions in other countries. My colleagues even prepared Easter eggs! And last year I spent Easter Sunday very actively with friends on the trail. 8000 steps passed at the first hill. Practically like Duracella bunnies. Now we have 2020 and the coronavirus stage Everything is closed, and from 9 to 13 April in Portugal no one can move between municipalities. On Terceira, too. Whoever lives in Angra cannot go to Prai at this time – and vice versa. The point is that people don’t go to Easter to their families and don’t infect each other. This year, for the first time, my Easter on Terceira will be in closed building. Like all other days at the moment. But I already have a sour rye soup in a package, I’m prepared! And besides having the sour soup, I also have a hope that the situation we’re in will soon improve. So that we can celebrate the last Sundays of Festas do Espírito Santo. I wish that for you and myself.

Angra do Heroísmo – the capital of Terceira on the UNESCO World Heritage List

Angra do Heroísmo is the capital of Terceira. Calm, charming, full of treasures to discover. Its historical center is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. If you were on Terceira, you were certainly walking around enchanted by the streets of Angra do Heroísmo. If you haven’t been – everything ahead of you! But before you get here, you can enjoy pictures of Angra. You can find them, for example, on Facebook and Instagram. In Angra you can feel as if we traveled back in time. Terceira was discovered and inhabited in the second half of the 15th century, and some buildings in Angra remember the early 16th century! So the first explorers or their children could walk on their corridors! Angra do Heroísmo on the UNESCO World Heritage List Angra do Heroísmo was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1983. The basis was two cultural criteria: • IV – the place has to be an outstanding example of a type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates (a) significant stage(s) in human history; • VI – the place has to be directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance. (this criterion should preferably be used in conjunction with other criteria); When we look around Angra, we will see that history is present at every step here. Angra do Heroísmo is the first settlement in the Azores that received city rights. FIt’s been considered a city since 1534. In the same year, it became the seat of the diocese, which also affected its development. From the 16th to the 19th century it was the most important port of call in the Atlantic. Mostly for fleets sailing to and from India, but other ships crossing the Atlantic also stopped here. The ships were full of treasures from India and the Western world: gold, silver, oriental spices. They became the target of pirate attacks. Angry Bay, sheltered by the Monte Brasil peninsula, was a great haven. Two fortresses protected the island from external attacks: the São João Baptista fortress located by Monte Brazil and the fort São Sebastião (known as Castelinho) in Porto de Pipas („port of barrels”). Angra was developing, which was reflected in its architecture. The Sé cathedral, the Customs Office building, the church of Misericórdia (Mercy), the Franciscan convent – these are just some of the many monuments that confirm the importance of the capital of Terceira at that time. Angra do Heroísmo was also wisely built Angra is not only full of unusual monuments, but also very wisely built. When the first explorers reached Terceira, they saw the island with a large peninsula adjacent to its southern coast. The peninsula formed two bays and provided natural protection against wind and strong ocean waves. It is no wonder that they decided to settle there. The city grid is slightly skewed, comparing to the traditional buildings of those times. The first settlers built it, taking into account local winds, which indicates their great adaptation to the existing geographical conditions. Angra do Heroísmo has already survived the earthquake, may it survive also the following years On January 1, 1980, Terceira was hit by an earthquake of strength 7.2 on the Richter scale. Half of Angra was literally in ruins. However, most of the buildings were reconstructed according to their original plans. That is why today we can admire the unchanged shape of the historical center of the capital of Terceira. For those who have a house in the historical part of Angry, renovation work can be a trouble. You need to get a pile of permits, you need to keep the original facade, you need to remember about specific construction techniques. But when I walk the streets of Angry, I am grateful to the residents for their effort. It’s just beautiful here. Let it stay that way!

This Carnival was different

This Carnival was different. It was the first real Carnival in my life. I’ve been living in Terceira since January 2017, so this Carnival was the fourth during my life on the island. I still remember the first one. Everyone was telling: “You have to go to the Carnival”, and I was stiffening when I heard the phrase “you have to”. I didn’t feel like having fun. I was missing my family as hell and I felt more like sitting down and crying than celebrating. But I eventually put on a make-up as for Halloween and I went there. I walked among dressed up, smiling people, I took some photos. I went also to see balinhos, although my Portuguese was rather measly at that time, so I couldn’t understand a word from the shows. I tried filhoses do forno and filhoses fritas. And I decided that I liked bailinhos and filhoses, but costume parties were not for me. And this year I thought: the Carnival = party And after all, I like parties. I like meeting friends, I like having good fun. A friend proposed to meet in a group of friends and go to the party to Rua de Sāo Joāo. (A party which is apparently the last years’ invention, but it found its sympathizers very quickly). So we met, dressed up and went to the party. And it turned out that it was possible to go and to have fun! Ok, a small explanation – for me a party on a street is interesting for the first two hours. Later it gets boring, because neither you can dance (the music leaves a lot to be desired, maybe that’s why nobody dances here) nor talk (because it’s too loud). But the first two hours are worth experiencing them. The Carnival – what does it mean? Ok, a party is there, but generally – what does this Carnival mean? Lately I was looking for information about the Carnival to tell you about it on the Facebook and Instagram. And of course here, on the blog. I got to know that the word “carnival” comes from the Italian word “carnevale”. And that word has its Latin origin – of course! When you read what it means, your life will never be the same again. Are you ready? “Carnival” from Latin means “remove meat” or “farewell to meat”. Can you imagine? Steaks straight from the “Madagascar” instead of the Venice masks. Such a preparation for the Lent. I’ll leave you with that image. When you bounce back, you can continue reading. The Carnival in Terceira Are you still here, are you breathing? Good, now there will be something calmer. We’ll also get into the history, but a bit more recent. The end of the 19th century / the beginning of the 20th century. In the whole Europe dance shows were very popular. Groups known today as bailinhos evolved out of those dance shows. There are many theories about the origin of bailinhos. One of them tells that these were the emigrants coming back from Brasil that introduced a plot to the dance shows. Was it really like that? Probably we’ll never know it. But it’s nice to think that the local traditions have something in common with the amous Carnival in Rio. Bailinhos – a unique tradition from Terceira We know though that bailinhos are a tradition that exists only in Terceira. Bailinhos are stage groups that prepare their shows especially for the Carnival. Most of the groups consists of 20-24 people, usually amateurs. Each of the groups has to prepare its own script and arrangement to a typical music (rarely – writes their own music). Each team is also responsible for their costumes, make-up, scenography, stage props, logistics. Not even mentioning the choreography and direction. They start rehearsals a few weeks earlier. All that to play during the Carnival four days in a row in front of thousands of people. – Pedro, you all on this island wouldn’t work, you would only prepare some festivals all the time!– And do you have any idea how much work it takes to prepare a festival?? What do bailinhos talk about? The bailinhos performances are extremely popular. Around 60 groups visit every year around 40 culture centers located on the island and play in front of thousands of people. What do they talk about? About everything that during that time moves the local and international community. There may appear such issues as the government, health services, racial prejudices, low-cost airlines. There are also such topics as homosexuality, gender equality, betrayal, alcohol, limited transportation within the archipelago, rivalry between the islands, politics, inefficiency of courts, disputes between neighbours, climate changes. And many, many more. To understand bailinhos is to understand the island To understand well the bailinhos performances, you have to first of all speak Portuguese well and second of all – understand the local community. Jokes are simple but they hit into what the audience is interested in. From these performances you can read perfectly what the island’s community lives on. It’s a mirror of reality, it’s worth looking into it. In the article „Big Carnival in small Terceira” I wrote about how much I was surprised at the beginning by the lack of any plan and „schedule” of performances. I am not surprised anymore. Now I see that this is a part of culture. Just like following one bailinhos group like your favourite rock band. Or like eating bifana, broad beans and filhoses during breaks. Bailinhos performances are the largest „gathering” of popular theater in Portuguese language in the whole world. And all that on a small island. People wait for the Carnival for the whole year During the carnival, the habitants are eagerly celebrating Dia de Amigos, Amigas, Compadres and Comadres. Recently also bailinhos for the elderly, which takes place before the main Carnival weekend, is also popular. But these are the last 4 days that are the most important. People

Big Carnival in small Terceira

Carnival in Terceira – a big carnival on a small island Carnival (in Portuguese: Carnaval) is one of the events that the islanders are waiting for all year. And the moment it’s over – they cure a cold and wait for the next one. And next. And next. It is a tradition that is definitely worth looking at. I will lead you through it with my eyes. „You have to go to the carnival” – I hear. But how do I have to? Carnival is just a carnival, every occasion to celebrate is good and I don’t feel like celebrating right now. And how is it – that the carnival lasts from Saturday to Tuesday? And that Tuesday (Shrovetide) is supposedly a day off just because there is a party? And some public institutions also have a day off Monday? What the hell? But fine. I’m putting on a leather dress, I’m drawing a black spider’s web around my eyes and I’m going out. I hear later that my outfit was more suited to Halloween than to carnival. That it is gloomy at Halloween and wild and colourful at carnival. But that’s okay, I’m going to check what’s all the fuss about. Before leaving the bar of a friend, I still see a boy in a pink ballet skirt and pink tulle wings. I’m going out. I’m going to Rua de São João. And there’s a real party there. Rua de São João is one of the streets leading from the main street Rua da Sé to the marina in Angra. During the carnival (just like during Sanjoaninas) it becomes the party center of the island. Everyone who loves costume parties gets here. Especially on the last Saturday and… Monday of the carnival. Yes, Monday – eventually, Tuesday is a day off and you can sleep. Creating a fancy, original costume is a challenge that many people gladly take on. They try, buy, order, sew, knit, cut, glue, paint… The more expressively and colourfully, the better. On the streets you can see witches, pirates, frogs, knights, trees, and even Frida Kahlo. „That’s why in the stores they had all these Spiderman and maids costumes, and masks, and hats in all sorts of colours and shapes,” I’m thinking. And I’m watching groups of laughing people who party as if it was the best party of their lives. Who knows, maybe it is. The next best one will be on Monday. Another one – during the Sanjoaninas. And then again the carnival. I’m walking and looking at people. I am not in a fun mood at the end of February 2017, the beginning of my stay on the island, when I don’t know what and how, I feel how different I am. There is a crowd on the street, but somehow I can’t get lost in this crowd. I come back home feeling that this is a fantastic tradition, but not mine. Maybe someday I’ll get to her, maybe not. But it’s definitely an event worth seeing. Bailinhos, though, conquer my heart. Everyone around is also talking about bailinhos. And everyone is surprised that I do not know what it is. Well, this is a typical Terceira tradition, so it’s no surprise I don’t know it. But I get to know it quickly. Bailinhos are theater, music and dance groups, composed mainly of amateurs, which are created especially for the carnival period (last weekend, from Saturday to Tuesday). Original scenarios, music, choreographic arrangements, specially sewn costumes in all colours of the rainbow, long weekend and evening rehearsals… All this in order to drive for four days from one cultural center to another and comment on contemporary social and political reality from the stage. Both local, understandable only to the inhabitants of the island or even a commune, and worldwide. Sometimes there are professionals in the groups, but usually bailinhos are people who have their other work and occupancies – and only for the carnival period they put on a colourful costume and enter the stage. Some invariably every year for two decades. Or longer. Because it’s an addictive activity. Before this happens, however, bailinhos will have long weeks of preparation. Carnival is such an important event that even test dates in schools are sometimes postponed because of it! My first contact with bailinhos consists mainly of questions starting with „But how is it possible?” But how is it possible that there is no schedule? But how is it possible that no one knows when the next group will come? And who will be the next group? But how is it possible that you have no idea how long it will last? But how is it possible that you have food and drink, and blankets? Are you really going to sit here from the afternoon until the very morning?? During the first experience with bailinhos, I didn’t understand not only a word from the stage, but I also didn’t understand the whole cultural context. In small and larger cultural centers, people come as soon as possible, take their seats, put on a blanket and sit in fact from the afternoon until the dawn. They watch one performance after another, comment, compare to what the same group showed last year. They wonder which bailinhos are the most interesting this year, evaluate the set and costumes, wait impatiently for their neighbour, daughter or fish seller to appear on the stage. They go to the bar to eat bifana and treat each other with biscuits. Yes, there is a bar next to each cultural center during the carnival, where you can buy a bifana (a roll with a cutlet I mentioned several times, the absolute hit of each event), beer and other drinks and snacks. Besides, everyone is usually well stocked with chips, biscuits and orangeade. Carnival is not the time for healthy eating. Unfortunately, this trend has not arrived on the island yet. But many bacteria and viruses arrive to the carnival. It is

Dia de Amigos, i.e. Friends’ Day in the Azores

Dia de Amigos, Dia de Amigas, Dia de Compadres, Dia de Comadres… The last four Thursdays of the Carnival are extremely intensely celebrated in the Azores. Boyfriends’ (Male Friends’) Day, Girlfriends’ (Female Friends’) Day, Cofathers’ Day and Comothers’ Day are exceptional holidays, typical of the Azores archipelago. And still important, especially the first two. And how did it start? The history of celebrating these holidays is probably about 100 years old. The neighbors were gathering to prepare corn, wheat and other grains for the upcoming Festas do Espírito Santo, a celebration in honor of the Holy Spirit. In order not to get bored, they amused themselves with poetry and chants. Bonds between neighbours strengthened, and poems and musical pieces more and more eagerly praised friendship. After some time, traditional preparations for the Festas do Espírito Santo stopped having such meaning. Meetings in small groups were replaced by an organization at the commune level. Friends and acquaintances, however, were still eager to meet. Spending time together and celebrating friendship has become a value. Nowadays, Boyfriends’ (Male Friends’) Day and Girlfriends (Female Friends’) Day are one of the most celebrated holidays in Terceira. The fourth Thursday before the Carnival is Boyfriends’ Day. All the ladies stay at home, and groups of gentlemen come out on the streets of the island. These groups can include both three people and thirty – according to the principle „my friend’s friend is my friend”. Such meetings are an opportunity to break free from the routine of everyday life, to rest mentally and see those who have not seen each other for a long time. And for local dining outlets – to build up their budget. The third Thursday before the end of the Carnival belongs to ladies. Often fancifully, carnival-dressed groups of women celebrate Girlfriends’ Day just like men, in restaurants, bars and other places where you can eat and drink something good, and sometimes dance or… cheer on the stripper in his show. Yes, yes, striptease on Catholic, conservative islands is not surprising and it often accompanies Dia de Amigos and Dia de Amigas. I haven’t solved the puzzle yet, but… the machine on the street with condoms, lubricants and pregnancy tests is definitely part of the same puzzle. The Cofather’s Day and Comothers’ Day Day are more peaceful. They are usually commemorated by a text message with greetings or small sweets. But… who is a cofather? And who is a comother? Well, they are people of the same sex that have a big impact on raising a new society member. Cofathers are most often the father and the godfather of a child, and comothers – the mother and the godmother. On the islands, life still goes on in groups. Of course, Western European individualism is becoming more and more popular, but most of social life is still based on interpersonal contacts, especially those within the family. Family is holiness, and by the way – great help in everyday life. Sister will drop eggs and milk from a cow, brother – oranges, mother – freshly baked cake, cousins will take care of the child on Saturday afternoon – and you can function. And next Saturday, take over the queue to look after the cousins’ children. And give everyone interested beans from the garden behind the house. I don’t have beans behind the house, but I do function in a group of friends. And I celebrated Dia de Amigas three times on the island. There is something to celebrate! Friendship is one of the most beautiful inventions of humanity! Dia de Amigas means places filled with women full of good energy, it means streets full of chatty strollers, it means cars with smiley women faces… It’s good to see so much joy in the same time. And it’s even better to let yourself be carried away by this joy and to recharge your batteries with it for the next days. And if it ran out, you know – a phone call to a friend. Or a girlfriend!

Tourada à corda – bulls in Terceira

Tourada à corda, or a story about bulls running on the streets I was with a Polish friend who was on Terceira on Erasmus, on a tourada. He spotted someone in a Legia shirt in the crowd (Legia is a Polish football team). He told me: „Milena, look, there’s a guy in Legia’s shirt!” I wasn’t too conscious so I asked him what Legia’s shirt looks like. He explained, I spotted the man he was talking about and after a moment of hesitation we said: „Let’s go!” Nearby, there was a tasca (it’s kind of a foodtruck, seen here mainly at touradas and other special events), in which our countrymate was ordering something to drink. We told him „Good afternoon” and started a conversation. „What brought you to Terceira?” „I came to Terceira especially to see the bulls!” – answered our interlocutor. He amazed us enormously. We listened to his story: „I learned last year that there were bull runs in the Azores, and I wanted to see them. So I bought a ticket to the Azores and flew, but I got to São Miguel. And it wasn’t until I got there when I learned that I should have gone to Terceira. This year I came here.” I was very surprised that someone flew through half of Europe and half of the Atlantic Ocean in order to see how bulls run in the streets, but as I thought later about the reactions of various friends of mine to this phenomenon – I stopped being surprised. Touradas à corda are definitely one of Terceira’s distinguishing features. Bulls on the street are normal here At least from May 1 to October 15. During this period, touradas take place almost every day in one or more places. This means that the bulls, which are normally crowded in fields and pastures (right next to the cows, which are more numerous than people in the Azores), go out „into the street”. And they are more or less willing to meet the crowd of people gathered especially for them. Tourada à corda is an event that unites the community It’s a reason to meet, talk, spend time together. Lost wanderers will find a place on someone’s wall or even a yard. At this time, there are no differences between people – everyone wants to be safe and have the best perspective. To meet friends, laugh, hold your breath. Stay with each other in this exciting moment. What is the tourada à corda? Okay, so what’s the point? Well, the tourada à corda means bulls running along the street, held on a rope by two groups of 3-5 men each, called pastores (shepherds). The bull is usually mature and experienced in battle (although there are also younger and unfamiliar with the subject), and pastores – tough and hungry for adrenaline. And dressed in white shirts, gray or black pants and black hats. Daredevils annoy bull often equipped with umbrellas or sheets, and the entire spectacle is watched by the people gathered in the surrounding courtyards and fences. How to behave on tourada Before I mention the tradition of quinto touro, which is associated with the great hospitality of the inhabitants of Terceira and the unification of the community, maybe a few words about how to behave on tourada and what technical issues related to it look like. First of all – take care of your safety If your health and life are valuable to you, then you better watch out. Check in advance exactly where and when the tourada is taking place and appear there at least half an hour earlier. Tourada can be an exciting but also dangerous event. From the technical point of view – insurance doesn’t cover close meetings with a bull. If something happens to you, it is only your fault, so it’s better to take care of yourself in advance and find a place where you will definitely be safe. Second of all – leave the car away Leave the car far away (usually there will be no more places nearby anyway, all surrounding roads will be blocked) and come to the tourada by foot. Why? Well, so that by any chance your car doesn’t become interesting for a bull. No insurance will cover this for you. Tourada should not start if there are vehicles on its route, but it’s better not to risk it. Third of all – find a suitable place The bull usually runs along a street about 500 m long. If you want a good view, you have to find a place either along this street, on a safe (high!) wall or behind a fence. Most fences are protected with boards at this time – this applies to both private properties and tascas, i.e. the foodtrucks mentioned above, which are extremely popular during touradas. (Digression – you will buy in tascas beer, local liqueurs and aguardente, i.e. local moonshine, as well as bifanas, i.e. buns with a cutlet – the most popular local fast-food. And you will find peanuts, olives and lupine grains to be eaten. The owners of the tascas often offer their guests beer and don’t like „no” as an answer). If you don’t know where to hide – ask someone. Even if (s)he doesn’t speak English, (s)he’ll show you a safe place anyway. And if the bull is already on the street, and you haven’t found your place yet – stay where you are (as long as it’s not at the bull’s route). At the end of the bull’s „route” there’s a policeman and three white lines. Stay behind the third, which means a safety zone. Of course, unless the bull breaks from the rope etc. etc., but that’s another story. Fourth of all – listen to the sound signs Four bulls take part in the tourada, but they are not released at the same time. All bulls wait in their cages for their turn and are released one by one. Letting the bull

10 places worth visiting in Terceira

10 places worth visiting in Terceira When I decided to describe 10 places worth visiting in Terceira, I thought: but there are many more places worth visiting here! Terceira is a small island (around 400 sq. m) but full of beauty. But I realize that not everybody has a privilege to spend here as much time as I do. That’s why I chose “must see” places. And made sure that you won’t spend half a day looking for them. So, shall we start? 1. Volcano Algar do Carvão As it is my favourite place on the whole Island, of course it has to be on the first place. There are plenty of volcanoes on the Azores, but this one is unique. Why? Because you can see it from the inside! From the inside of the volcanic cone! What is it about? In most of the volcanoes, after the eruption the cone collapses and creates a caldera. Here it was different. Here during the second eruption which created the volcano, lava was flowing under such small pressure that as some point it started getting back. When it was getting back, it was strengthening the cone. That’s why the volcano, apart from undergoing natural changes, survived in the condition that we can admire until today. In Europe there are only two known empty volcanoes (in the whole world – three), which you can visit from the inside. This is Algar do Carvão in Terceira and Thrihnukagigur in Iceland. As you can see, the Atlantic Ocean favours untypical geological events. In Algar do Carvão you can see such unique work of nature as stalactites and stalagmites from amorphous silica. They are milk-white, beautiful and they may reach up to around 1 m of length and 40-50 cm in diameter. Visiting Algar do Carvão is now possible for the whole year. During winter – in chosen week days, since spring until autumn – every day. It’s worth getting dressed warmly because it’s cold inside and there is dropping water there (which creates a lagoon at the bottom of the cave). A standard visit takes around half an hour, although in my opinion it’s worth planning at least an hour for this experience. There’s a guide inside the cave who will explain you everything and answer your questions. There also leaflets in different languages, including Polish. If you want to get to know more about the volcano, check the website of the Association Os Montanheiros, which takes care of the volcano. Website of the Association Os Montaheiros: HEREMore information about the volcano Algar do Carvão: HEREOpening hours and ticket prices: HERE 2. Lava tube Gruta do Natal As we’re already under ground, let’s visit also a lava tube Gruta do Natal. Some guides, wanting to help tourists, use the English name Christmas Cave. Where is this name coming from? Well, it started with a mess, which was organized by the Association Os Montaheiros (it also take care of this cave) during Christmas time in 1969. Since then, every now and again important historical and social events take place in this cave. Gruta do Natal is a cave shaped by flowing lava. Inside of it, you will see such lava curiosities as stafilites (“stalagmites” made of dropping lava), lava flows and lateral “counters”. There are also different kinds of lava there, including lava aa. Once I heard a story that it’s called like that because when you walk on it, you say: “Aa!” Its rough surface indeed provokes such sounds, I wouldn’t like to stand on it barefoot. Important logistic and payment information: you can buy one ticket to both the volcano Algar do Carvão and to Gruta do Natal, this way you will pay less. You don’t have to use the ticket on the same day, but before planning a visit it’s worth checking opening days and hours, to not go away empty-handed. More information about the lava tube Gruta do Natal: HEREOpening hours and ticket prices: HERE 3. Furnas do Enxofre Between the empty volcano and the lava tube there’s a place called Furnas do Enxofre. When you will be going from Algar do Carvão to Gruta do Natal, turn right, the road sign will lead you. “Furna” means a grot or a cave, “enxofre” – Sulphur, so theoretically Furnas do Enxofre are a grot of Sulphur, but in reality it’s an area of secondary volcanic activity in Terceira. You can see there and smell gas sulphur compounds plumming from the ground. Who remembers from chemistry classes what’s the smell of hydrogen sulphide? As befits a volcanic area, Furnas do Enxofre is a beautiful site with juicy greenery. (Volcanic soils are very fertile, and the Azorean climate is favourable for all kinds of vegetation). Apart from the fumaroles – places where gas is pluming from the Earth. There, because of huge concentration of iron and Sulphur, the soil is bare and has white-yellow-brownish colour. It can arouse small anxiety, but only small. Because if the gas can plume, it’s a bit calmer underground. The water in a pod is boiling, but a bit leaky lid let the steam “escape”, so the content of the pod shouldn’t suddenly boil over. 4. Santa Bárbara – the highest point in Terceira Let’s move up from the lowlands and undergrounds – maybe to the clouds? To the peak Serra de Santa Bárbara – the highest point of Terciera. It has 1021 m above sea level and you can see from there a big part of Terceira, the omnipresent ocean and incredible sunset. Of course if you get lucky and if St. Barbara is not hidden in clouds. The truth is that’s it’s the middle of the Atlantic ocean and the clouds, which flow fast, are being stopped by hills. So I suggest observing the weather and going to Serra de Santa Bárbara (it’s a very characteristic peak, with lots of antennas and transmitters) the moment you see its peak. It’s worth it! I have almost forgotten to