Azores – which island to go
One of the questions you ask me regularly is “Azores – which island to go?” I understand that each of us has limited time and possibilities, so we want to choose what’s the best for us. Let me guide you in this article „Azores – which island to go” through the Azorean islands so that you can check which destination is for you. Or – which destination is for you now. Later there may be others. You must have heard that each Azorean island is different. I won’t pretend that it’s not like that. Each island really is different. Each has its atmosphere, each has something specific to offer. What is common for them, are the Atlantic Ocean, greenery and volcanoes. And variable weather. You can experience 4 seasons in one day in the Azores, do you already know about it? You have to be prepared for everything. (On the day when I’m writing it, I hung a towel behind my house, for it to dry. The sun was shining and there was strong wind. At some point, I heard big noise. I went close to the window – it was raining. A 3-minute torrent. I guess my towel was safer in the bathroom.) There are 9 islands in the Azores. They are located about 1500 km from the Portuguese coast and scattered in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance of about 650 km. They are all seismically active and all extremely interesting. I know all of them and I can see well that the statement that each island is different is fully justified. So, should we make a small trip around each of the islands? Terceira – go inside the volcano and celebrate holidays that don’t exist in any other place in the world Of course, Terceira goes first. Why? Because I live here and I love this island. This is the first Azorean island I got to know and the first one I fell in love with. The ubiquitous greenery absolutely captivated me. And this peace, this warmth. And a huge dose of joy in the air. For me – the perfect combination. I’ve heard lately that somebody made a good publicity to Terceira, claiming that there’s nothing on it. Thanks to this, there are no random tourists here, only those who are really curious about the world. They arrive – and quickly begin to wonder why they arrived only for x days, not twice as much. So what is so unique in Terceira? There is the Algar do Carvão volcano, unique on a global scale. In this volcano, you can enter the volcanic chimney. There are only three such volcanoes in the world, of which only two are open to visitors. One of them is in Terceira. The Azores are volcanic islands, so there is no shortage of landscapes full of volcanic cones on Terceira. The island’s highest peak, Serra de Santa Bárbara (1021 m a.s.l.), from which most of the island can be seen, is an active volcano. You can also visit the lava tube Gruta do Natal, watch the fumaroles in Furnas do Enxofre, look at Terceira Rift, take a bath in natural rock pools, e.g. in Biscoitos. And after the bath, drink wine from the local vineyard. Terceira – these are happy cows living with ocean views, delicious cheese and trails full of endemic plants. (The university is full of researchers from around the world who are coming to Terceira to study plant species endemic for the Azores and for Terceira itself.) This is the island’s historic capital, Angra do Heroísmo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s delicious Donas Amélias, local alcatra and freshly removed from the rocks lapas. Terceira is also a paradise for water sports enthusiasts – diving, snorkeling, sailing, SUP, kayaking, coasteering. Plus, watching whales and dolphins, and on land – canyoning and an rope park. You can lie down on a cliff and do nothing – or you can get really tired. Whatever you prefer. Terceira means holidays that are not celebrated anywhere else It is said that there are 8 islands and one entertainment park in the Azores. This entertainment park is Terceira. People here love to have fun. Maybe that’s why traditions that are nowhere else in the world have survived to this day. This is where you can take part in the Festas do Espírito Santo, i.e. the celebration of the Holy Spirit. This is where you can see people gathering for touradas à corda, often without even seeing the bull. They focus on the so-called „Quinto touro”, that is the „fifth bull” – the party. It is on Terceira that the largest concentration of amateur theaters in the world in Portuguese takes place, i.e. the bailinhos carnival performances (read more HERE and HERE) – the only such tradition in the whole world. After all, it’s on Terceira where you can take part in the largest profane festival in the Azores, Sanjoaninas. There are enough things to do, the calendar is bursting at the seams. But if you prefer peace and quiet, there will always be a place for you in the bosom of nature. In the middle of nowhere. With a view for the lush green volcanic hills, the calming checkerboard of fields and pastures, and the intensely blue ocean. Unmixed blessing. And for this I value Terceira. I know I wrote a lot about Terceira But this is a place I know very well and that’s why I know how much it offers. And no, I do not urge you to come here;) And I do not urge you to visit this island with me 😉 That’s why I’m moving on to other islands, which are also amazing! São Jorge – take a dip in the natural rock pool in a fajã and try the local cheese São Jorge is an island that pleases your eyes even before you land on it. It is said to be a lying dragon. And
This Carnival was different
This Carnival was different. It was the first real Carnival in my life. I’ve been living in Terceira since January 2017, so this Carnival was the fourth during my life on the island. I still remember the first one. Everyone was telling: “You have to go to the Carnival”, and I was stiffening when I heard the phrase “you have to”. I didn’t feel like having fun. I was missing my family as hell and I felt more like sitting down and crying than celebrating. But I eventually put on a make-up as for Halloween and I went there. I walked among dressed up, smiling people, I took some photos. I went also to see balinhos, although my Portuguese was rather measly at that time, so I couldn’t understand a word from the shows. I tried filhoses do forno and filhoses fritas. And I decided that I liked bailinhos and filhoses, but costume parties were not for me. And this year I thought: the Carnival = party And after all, I like parties. I like meeting friends, I like having good fun. A friend proposed to meet in a group of friends and go to the party to Rua de Sāo Joāo. (A party which is apparently the last years’ invention, but it found its sympathizers very quickly). So we met, dressed up and went to the party. And it turned out that it was possible to go and to have fun! Ok, a small explanation – for me a party on a street is interesting for the first two hours. Later it gets boring, because neither you can dance (the music leaves a lot to be desired, maybe that’s why nobody dances here) nor talk (because it’s too loud). But the first two hours are worth experiencing them. The Carnival – what does it mean? Ok, a party is there, but generally – what does this Carnival mean? Lately I was looking for information about the Carnival to tell you about it on the Facebook and Instagram. And of course here, on the blog. I got to know that the word “carnival” comes from the Italian word “carnevale”. And that word has its Latin origin – of course! When you read what it means, your life will never be the same again. Are you ready? “Carnival” from Latin means “remove meat” or “farewell to meat”. Can you imagine? Steaks straight from the “Madagascar” instead of the Venice masks. Such a preparation for the Lent. I’ll leave you with that image. When you bounce back, you can continue reading. The Carnival in Terceira Are you still here, are you breathing? Good, now there will be something calmer. We’ll also get into the history, but a bit more recent. The end of the 19th century / the beginning of the 20th century. In the whole Europe dance shows were very popular. Groups known today as bailinhos evolved out of those dance shows. There are many theories about the origin of bailinhos. One of them tells that these were the emigrants coming back from Brasil that introduced a plot to the dance shows. Was it really like that? Probably we’ll never know it. But it’s nice to think that the local traditions have something in common with the amous Carnival in Rio. Bailinhos – a unique tradition from Terceira We know though that bailinhos are a tradition that exists only in Terceira. Bailinhos are stage groups that prepare their shows especially for the Carnival. Most of the groups consists of 20-24 people, usually amateurs. Each of the groups has to prepare its own script and arrangement to a typical music (rarely – writes their own music). Each team is also responsible for their costumes, make-up, scenography, stage props, logistics. Not even mentioning the choreography and direction. They start rehearsals a few weeks earlier. All that to play during the Carnival four days in a row in front of thousands of people. – Pedro, you all on this island wouldn’t work, you would only prepare some festivals all the time!– And do you have any idea how much work it takes to prepare a festival?? What do bailinhos talk about? The bailinhos performances are extremely popular. Around 60 groups visit every year around 40 culture centers located on the island and play in front of thousands of people. What do they talk about? About everything that during that time moves the local and international community. There may appear such issues as the government, health services, racial prejudices, low-cost airlines. There are also such topics as homosexuality, gender equality, betrayal, alcohol, limited transportation within the archipelago, rivalry between the islands, politics, inefficiency of courts, disputes between neighbours, climate changes. And many, many more. To understand bailinhos is to understand the island To understand well the bailinhos performances, you have to first of all speak Portuguese well and second of all – understand the local community. Jokes are simple but they hit into what the audience is interested in. From these performances you can read perfectly what the island’s community lives on. It’s a mirror of reality, it’s worth looking into it. In the article „Big Carnival in small Terceira” I wrote about how much I was surprised at the beginning by the lack of any plan and „schedule” of performances. I am not surprised anymore. Now I see that this is a part of culture. Just like following one bailinhos group like your favourite rock band. Or like eating bifana, broad beans and filhoses during breaks. Bailinhos performances are the largest „gathering” of popular theater in Portuguese language in the whole world. And all that on a small island. People wait for the Carnival for the whole year During the carnival, the habitants are eagerly celebrating Dia de Amigos, Amigas, Compadres and Comadres. Recently also bailinhos for the elderly, which takes place before the main Carnival weekend, is also popular. But these are the last 4 days that are the most important. People
Big Carnival in small Terceira
Carnival in Terceira – a big carnival on a small island Carnival (in Portuguese: Carnaval) is one of the events that the islanders are waiting for all year. And the moment it’s over – they cure a cold and wait for the next one. And next. And next. It is a tradition that is definitely worth looking at. I will lead you through it with my eyes. „You have to go to the carnival” – I hear. But how do I have to? Carnival is just a carnival, every occasion to celebrate is good and I don’t feel like celebrating right now. And how is it – that the carnival lasts from Saturday to Tuesday? And that Tuesday (Shrovetide) is supposedly a day off just because there is a party? And some public institutions also have a day off Monday? What the hell? But fine. I’m putting on a leather dress, I’m drawing a black spider’s web around my eyes and I’m going out. I hear later that my outfit was more suited to Halloween than to carnival. That it is gloomy at Halloween and wild and colourful at carnival. But that’s okay, I’m going to check what’s all the fuss about. Before leaving the bar of a friend, I still see a boy in a pink ballet skirt and pink tulle wings. I’m going out. I’m going to Rua de São João. And there’s a real party there. Rua de São João is one of the streets leading from the main street Rua da Sé to the marina in Angra. During the carnival (just like during Sanjoaninas) it becomes the party center of the island. Everyone who loves costume parties gets here. Especially on the last Saturday and… Monday of the carnival. Yes, Monday – eventually, Tuesday is a day off and you can sleep. Creating a fancy, original costume is a challenge that many people gladly take on. They try, buy, order, sew, knit, cut, glue, paint… The more expressively and colourfully, the better. On the streets you can see witches, pirates, frogs, knights, trees, and even Frida Kahlo. „That’s why in the stores they had all these Spiderman and maids costumes, and masks, and hats in all sorts of colours and shapes,” I’m thinking. And I’m watching groups of laughing people who party as if it was the best party of their lives. Who knows, maybe it is. The next best one will be on Monday. Another one – during the Sanjoaninas. And then again the carnival. I’m walking and looking at people. I am not in a fun mood at the end of February 2017, the beginning of my stay on the island, when I don’t know what and how, I feel how different I am. There is a crowd on the street, but somehow I can’t get lost in this crowd. I come back home feeling that this is a fantastic tradition, but not mine. Maybe someday I’ll get to her, maybe not. But it’s definitely an event worth seeing. Bailinhos, though, conquer my heart. Everyone around is also talking about bailinhos. And everyone is surprised that I do not know what it is. Well, this is a typical Terceira tradition, so it’s no surprise I don’t know it. But I get to know it quickly. Bailinhos are theater, music and dance groups, composed mainly of amateurs, which are created especially for the carnival period (last weekend, from Saturday to Tuesday). Original scenarios, music, choreographic arrangements, specially sewn costumes in all colours of the rainbow, long weekend and evening rehearsals… All this in order to drive for four days from one cultural center to another and comment on contemporary social and political reality from the stage. Both local, understandable only to the inhabitants of the island or even a commune, and worldwide. Sometimes there are professionals in the groups, but usually bailinhos are people who have their other work and occupancies – and only for the carnival period they put on a colourful costume and enter the stage. Some invariably every year for two decades. Or longer. Because it’s an addictive activity. Before this happens, however, bailinhos will have long weeks of preparation. Carnival is such an important event that even test dates in schools are sometimes postponed because of it! My first contact with bailinhos consists mainly of questions starting with „But how is it possible?” But how is it possible that there is no schedule? But how is it possible that no one knows when the next group will come? And who will be the next group? But how is it possible that you have no idea how long it will last? But how is it possible that you have food and drink, and blankets? Are you really going to sit here from the afternoon until the very morning?? During the first experience with bailinhos, I didn’t understand not only a word from the stage, but I also didn’t understand the whole cultural context. In small and larger cultural centers, people come as soon as possible, take their seats, put on a blanket and sit in fact from the afternoon until the dawn. They watch one performance after another, comment, compare to what the same group showed last year. They wonder which bailinhos are the most interesting this year, evaluate the set and costumes, wait impatiently for their neighbour, daughter or fish seller to appear on the stage. They go to the bar to eat bifana and treat each other with biscuits. Yes, there is a bar next to each cultural center during the carnival, where you can buy a bifana (a roll with a cutlet I mentioned several times, the absolute hit of each event), beer and other drinks and snacks. Besides, everyone is usually well stocked with chips, biscuits and orangeade. Carnival is not the time for healthy eating. Unfortunately, this trend has not arrived on the island yet. But many bacteria and viruses arrive to the carnival. It is
Dia de Amigos, i.e. Friends’ Day in the Azores
Dia de Amigos, Dia de Amigas, Dia de Compadres, Dia de Comadres… The last four Thursdays of the Carnival are extremely intensely celebrated in the Azores. Boyfriends’ (Male Friends’) Day, Girlfriends’ (Female Friends’) Day, Cofathers’ Day and Comothers’ Day are exceptional holidays, typical of the Azores archipelago. And still important, especially the first two. And how did it start? The history of celebrating these holidays is probably about 100 years old. The neighbors were gathering to prepare corn, wheat and other grains for the upcoming Festas do Espírito Santo, a celebration in honor of the Holy Spirit. In order not to get bored, they amused themselves with poetry and chants. Bonds between neighbours strengthened, and poems and musical pieces more and more eagerly praised friendship. After some time, traditional preparations for the Festas do Espírito Santo stopped having such meaning. Meetings in small groups were replaced by an organization at the commune level. Friends and acquaintances, however, were still eager to meet. Spending time together and celebrating friendship has become a value. Nowadays, Boyfriends’ (Male Friends’) Day and Girlfriends (Female Friends’) Day are one of the most celebrated holidays in Terceira. The fourth Thursday before the Carnival is Boyfriends’ Day. All the ladies stay at home, and groups of gentlemen come out on the streets of the island. These groups can include both three people and thirty – according to the principle „my friend’s friend is my friend”. Such meetings are an opportunity to break free from the routine of everyday life, to rest mentally and see those who have not seen each other for a long time. And for local dining outlets – to build up their budget. The third Thursday before the end of the Carnival belongs to ladies. Often fancifully, carnival-dressed groups of women celebrate Girlfriends’ Day just like men, in restaurants, bars and other places where you can eat and drink something good, and sometimes dance or… cheer on the stripper in his show. Yes, yes, striptease on Catholic, conservative islands is not surprising and it often accompanies Dia de Amigos and Dia de Amigas. I haven’t solved the puzzle yet, but… the machine on the street with condoms, lubricants and pregnancy tests is definitely part of the same puzzle. The Cofather’s Day and Comothers’ Day Day are more peaceful. They are usually commemorated by a text message with greetings or small sweets. But… who is a cofather? And who is a comother? Well, they are people of the same sex that have a big impact on raising a new society member. Cofathers are most often the father and the godfather of a child, and comothers – the mother and the godmother. On the islands, life still goes on in groups. Of course, Western European individualism is becoming more and more popular, but most of social life is still based on interpersonal contacts, especially those within the family. Family is holiness, and by the way – great help in everyday life. Sister will drop eggs and milk from a cow, brother – oranges, mother – freshly baked cake, cousins will take care of the child on Saturday afternoon – and you can function. And next Saturday, take over the queue to look after the cousins’ children. And give everyone interested beans from the garden behind the house. I don’t have beans behind the house, but I do function in a group of friends. And I celebrated Dia de Amigas three times on the island. There is something to celebrate! Friendship is one of the most beautiful inventions of humanity! Dia de Amigas means places filled with women full of good energy, it means streets full of chatty strollers, it means cars with smiley women faces… It’s good to see so much joy in the same time. And it’s even better to let yourself be carried away by this joy and to recharge your batteries with it for the next days. And if it ran out, you know – a phone call to a friend. Or a girlfriend!