Capinha, tourada and bulls, i.e. Terceira tradition behind the scenes
I wrote recently that I took part in an event in which I didn’t expect to participate. Someone guessed it had something to do with bulls. That something – it was Festival de capinhas. Capinhas festival. It started with my friend João saying: „We have a capinhas festival on Friday, do you want to come?” To my surprise – I wanted to. I watched bulls running freely in the arena and capinhas, i.e. people who – as is used to say here – play with bulls. Including my friend João. I understood what so many Terceira people might see in such events. Adrenaline and emotions There is admiration for the bulls and for the capinhas. Adrenaline and emotions that go up even more when the bull jumps over the railings. Or when you see someone you know in the middle of the arena. Looking straight into the eyes of the bull running at him. I’ve already been to several Terceira traditional touradas à corda. (These are events where bulls run in the streets; I wrote about it in more detail in the article „Tourada à corda„). But it was my first time at the Capinhas festival. I even had to ask who the capinhas were, I didn’t know the word. I learned that capinhas are people who appear during the tourada on the way of the bull’s run and attract its attention. They annoy it, call out to another place. They use rags, umbrellas or hands for this. Yes, hands. Some people put them on the head of a bull and go around in circles with the bull. My friend João is known to fans of touradas as capinha After the festival, I thought you might be interested in what the „world of bulls” looks like behind the scenes. After all, many people come to Terceira because of the tourada! So I interviewed João and learned a lot of interesting things. How it all started We’re sitting down and starting talking. First, I’m asking João about his history with tourada and bulls. „I’m from Terceira, bulls are in my blood,” he’s replying. And he’s starting talking about the fact that as a child he used to go on touradas to watch his grandfather. His grandfather was a capinha, and he wanted that too. He was always curious what it was like to face a bull. Until the first time it finally happenned. „I went once – and it stayed that way.” I’m asking João what’s the role of capinhas during the tourada “Capinha’s task is to animate the tourada. Without capinhas, there’s no tourada. The bull runs back and forth on the street, nothing’s happening. People who like touradas also like capinhas and what we do. The role of capinhas is to entertain the tourada participants. I never thought about it that way. I thought capinhas go on tourada more for themselves than for the audience. And here’s a surprise. Though it’s undeniable that these are adrenaline-loving people come into this role. “We feel adrenaline. A flare shot – and you just feel it. We play with the bull, but it’s dangerous fun. We feel the breath of the bull close to us. It’s a danger, but it’s such a… good danger. „ To become a capinha you just have to want it And show up on a tourada. There’s no need to let anyone know in advance, tourada is an event open to everyone. However, many newcomers are turning to capinhas who are more familiar with the subject for help. The bull can weigh even a ton, it inspires fear and respect. Therefore, beginner daredevils are sometimes accompanied by capinhas with more experience. Tourists sometimes too, but it’s usually tourists who get hurt by the bull. Because they don’t know how to behave. And I would like to remind you (see the article „Tourada à corda„) that the insurance doesn’t cover damage caused by the bull. For your own safety, leave playing with bulls to people with more experience. The basic rule on tourada is safety Safety of people and bulls. Capinhas play with the bull, run around. But when they see that the bull is very dangerous, they don’t risk their lives. „This is not our livelihood,” says João. “We go on a tourada to have fun and entertain the audience, but we all want to go home. Professionals, for example, in Spain, are different. All their lives are bulls. We go to our work, leave it in the evening and go on a tourada. And we want to come back from tourada safe and sound. I’ve had four serious accidents, got hit on my head once, and passed out. The fewer accidents the better.” I’m asking about the bulls. And learning that capinhas and tourada organizers also keep the bulls safe. Some time ago, a bull would hit a wall with a horn, break the horn, and run on. Not now. Now in such a situation the bull is immediately taken from the street and cured. João also tells me that when capinhas see that someone in the public is putting the bull in danger, they react immediately and drag the bull away. “We want safety for the bull as well, not only for ourselves. The bull also has its rights.” I’m beginning to wonder how capinhas get prepared for touradas I’m hearing in an answer that their only preparation are possible „touradas” with cows – mothers of bulls. Grenadiers, or cattle breeders, want to know which cow will make a good mother for the next good bull. Good, meaning big and brave, which can be proudly exhibited on tourada. So they invite capinhas to such „cow touradas”. The capinhas train and the grenadiers learn which cow is worth investing in. The best bulls are selected for touradas Sometimes these are famous bulls. The ones who have already participated in many touradas and know how to react to capinhas and other people on the streets. At
Tourada à corda – bulls in Terceira
Tourada à corda, or a story about bulls running on the streets I was with a Polish friend who was on Terceira on Erasmus, on a tourada. He spotted someone in a Legia shirt in the crowd (Legia is a Polish football team). He told me: „Milena, look, there’s a guy in Legia’s shirt!” I wasn’t too conscious so I asked him what Legia’s shirt looks like. He explained, I spotted the man he was talking about and after a moment of hesitation we said: „Let’s go!” Nearby, there was a tasca (it’s kind of a foodtruck, seen here mainly at touradas and other special events), in which our countrymate was ordering something to drink. We told him „Good afternoon” and started a conversation. „What brought you to Terceira?” „I came to Terceira especially to see the bulls!” – answered our interlocutor. He amazed us enormously. We listened to his story: „I learned last year that there were bull runs in the Azores, and I wanted to see them. So I bought a ticket to the Azores and flew, but I got to São Miguel. And it wasn’t until I got there when I learned that I should have gone to Terceira. This year I came here.” I was very surprised that someone flew through half of Europe and half of the Atlantic Ocean in order to see how bulls run in the streets, but as I thought later about the reactions of various friends of mine to this phenomenon – I stopped being surprised. Touradas à corda are definitely one of Terceira’s distinguishing features. Bulls on the street are normal here At least from May 1 to October 15. During this period, touradas take place almost every day in one or more places. This means that the bulls, which are normally crowded in fields and pastures (right next to the cows, which are more numerous than people in the Azores), go out „into the street”. And they are more or less willing to meet the crowd of people gathered especially for them. Tourada à corda is an event that unites the community It’s a reason to meet, talk, spend time together. Lost wanderers will find a place on someone’s wall or even a yard. At this time, there are no differences between people – everyone wants to be safe and have the best perspective. To meet friends, laugh, hold your breath. Stay with each other in this exciting moment. What is the tourada à corda? Okay, so what’s the point? Well, the tourada à corda means bulls running along the street, held on a rope by two groups of 3-5 men each, called pastores (shepherds). The bull is usually mature and experienced in battle (although there are also younger and unfamiliar with the subject), and pastores – tough and hungry for adrenaline. And dressed in white shirts, gray or black pants and black hats. Daredevils annoy bull often equipped with umbrellas or sheets, and the entire spectacle is watched by the people gathered in the surrounding courtyards and fences. How to behave on tourada Before I mention the tradition of quinto touro, which is associated with the great hospitality of the inhabitants of Terceira and the unification of the community, maybe a few words about how to behave on tourada and what technical issues related to it look like. First of all – take care of your safety If your health and life are valuable to you, then you better watch out. Check in advance exactly where and when the tourada is taking place and appear there at least half an hour earlier. Tourada can be an exciting but also dangerous event. From the technical point of view – insurance doesn’t cover close meetings with a bull. If something happens to you, it is only your fault, so it’s better to take care of yourself in advance and find a place where you will definitely be safe. Second of all – leave the car away Leave the car far away (usually there will be no more places nearby anyway, all surrounding roads will be blocked) and come to the tourada by foot. Why? Well, so that by any chance your car doesn’t become interesting for a bull. No insurance will cover this for you. Tourada should not start if there are vehicles on its route, but it’s better not to risk it. Third of all – find a suitable place The bull usually runs along a street about 500 m long. If you want a good view, you have to find a place either along this street, on a safe (high!) wall or behind a fence. Most fences are protected with boards at this time – this applies to both private properties and tascas, i.e. the foodtrucks mentioned above, which are extremely popular during touradas. (Digression – you will buy in tascas beer, local liqueurs and aguardente, i.e. local moonshine, as well as bifanas, i.e. buns with a cutlet – the most popular local fast-food. And you will find peanuts, olives and lupine grains to be eaten. The owners of the tascas often offer their guests beer and don’t like „no” as an answer). If you don’t know where to hide – ask someone. Even if (s)he doesn’t speak English, (s)he’ll show you a safe place anyway. And if the bull is already on the street, and you haven’t found your place yet – stay where you are (as long as it’s not at the bull’s route). At the end of the bull’s „route” there’s a policeman and three white lines. Stay behind the third, which means a safety zone. Of course, unless the bull breaks from the rope etc. etc., but that’s another story. Fourth of all – listen to the sound signs Four bulls take part in the tourada, but they are not released at the same time. All bulls wait in their cages for their turn and are released one by one. Letting the bull