Serreta, or where the inhabitants of Terceira go every September

Serreta, or where the inhabitants of Terceira go every September „This weekend we’re going to Serreta, do you want to go with us?” – my friend asked me a few days ago. I wanted to.   I put on comfortable shoes, sunglasses, packed my backpack with food, water, sweatshirt and raincoat – and off you go. Serreta is a Terceiran Częstochowa (Quick explanation: Częstochowa is a Polish cult place where pilgrims go from all around the country every year). Every year, pilgrimages to Serreta take place. The inhabitants of Terceira wander to the sanctuary in Serreta from every part of the island. Some people even go around the island, making about 80 km on foot. Some people go to ask for something. Others to show gratitude for the past year. Others to meet friends, drink beer and eat bifana. (Bifana is the often mentioned bun with a cutlet, available in almost every tasca, i.e. a foodtruck). And to see the tourada à corda and pull for capinhas. This year, for obvious reasons, no great festival was organized. Usually there are tascas, music and fireworks. This year – only pilgrims wandering the streets of Terceira throughout the week. And a man with hand sanitizer at the entrance to the church. Nossa Senhora dos Milagres – Our Lady of Miracles In the Azores and in Portugal, Nossa Senhora dos Milagres, or Our Lady of Miracles, is highly revered. There is a sanctuary named after her in Serreta. There is a painting under the same invocation. It is said that this painting saved a priest who was running away from danger in the 17th century. As a thank you for that care, the priest built a chapel in which he placed the painting. It was in the area of today’s Serreta. After the priest’s death, the painting was transferred to a church in the nearby village of Doze Ribeiras. This image served the Terceiran people, as did the image of Our Lady of Częstochowa (PL: Matka Boska Częstochowska) for Poles. In the 17th century, Portugal was involved in the war between France and Spain, and Great Britain. Terceira, a small island, was virtually defenseless in this war. Residents turned to Our Lady of Miracles with a request for protection. They promised that if the island did not suffer any attack from the enemy, they would organize an annual festival in honor of Our Lady of Miracles. What they did. Festivals in honor of Our Lady of Miracles The first festival of the Festas da Nossa Senhora dos Milagres was held on September 11, 1764. In 1842, the church in Serreta was built, the miraculous painting was brought back to it – and since then, the festivals are held regularly. And since 2006, when the church was elevated to the rank of a sanctuary, the holidays have been even more sublime. These are religious and secular holidays that blend in with the image of the island. On the day of my planned pilgrimage, a friend asked me why I was not staying on the beach any longer. After all, the weather is beautiful and you could „get cooked” at home. I replied, „Because I’m going to Serreta.” And it was all clear. Serreta is local code, everyone knows what’s going on.   Serreta connecting people Serreta Weekend is one of the biggest events during the summer of Terceira. It connects old and young, believers and non-believers, fun-oriented and calm ones. The phenomenon of Terceira is that you can really feel the equality of all people here. Festivals in Serreta are one of the occasions to experience this unity. There are no better or worse, they are all equally important and the equally warmly welcomed. Isn’t it the social bond that we want? The Azores Read more about Azores 2018-01-25 The Azores 10 places worth visiting in Terceira 10 places worth visiting in Terceira When I decided to describe 10 places worth visiting in Terceira, I thought: but there are many more places worth visiting here! Terceira is a small island (around 400 sq. m) but full of beauty. But I realize that not everybody has a privilege… 2018-06-04 The Azores Festas do Espírito Santo Festas do Espírito Santo – what’s that? Festas do Espírito Santo – the Holy Spirit’s festivities – are one of the most distinguishable Azorean traditions. Their history starts in the 17th century, when Holy Spirit’s cult appeared in mainland Portugal. Sources don’t tell about any specific date, they just suggest… 2018-08-25 The Azores Tourada à corda – bulls in Terceira Tourada à corda, or a story about bulls running on the streets I was with a Polish friend who was on Terceira on Erasmus, on a tourada. He spotted someone in a Legia shirt in the crowd (Legia is a Polish football team). He told me: „Milena, look, there’s a…

Easter in Terceira

This is my fourth Easter on Terceira You sometimes ask me what Easter on Terceira looks like. I will tell you that it’s quite similar to the one in Poland. It’s primarily a religious but also a family holiday. It’s time to meet in a large group, with loved ones. Paschal Triduum Easter is a religious holiday, the most important in the Catholic Church. So it is celebrated above all in the church. Maundy Thursday – memory of the Last Supper On Maundy Thursday, the Mass of the Lord’s Supper is celebrated. It reminds us of the Last Supper and the establishment of the sacrament of priesthood. The rite of washing the feet, in turn, evokes the commandment of love. At the end of the mass, the Blessed Sacrament is moved from the altar to another secluded place. Good Friday is a holiday in Portugal Also in the sense that it is a day off from work. Can you imagine my surprise when in 2017 I went on Good Friday in search of a sour rye soup to an international store and this one was closed? Can’t you imagine? Then try to find this sour soup on Easter Monday. Impressions will be similar. Yes, except that in Portugal no one heard about this soup and the international store was my last resort. Traditionally, Good Friday applies „jejum e abstinência”, meaning fast and abstinence. What do they mean? Fasting means limiting the amount of meals consumed. It is now said that you can eat one full meal and small amounts of other meals. Abstinence is the quality limitation of meals consumed, with an indication of avoiding meat. Fish are allowed. (It is interesting that, according to the Church in Portugal, abstinence from meat affects all Fridays of the year, but I haven’t met yet a Portuguese who would comply. In fact, I haven’t met yet a Portuguese who would even know this recommendation. But everyone is surprised that such a tradition is respected in Poland). On Good Friday, the faithful also try to maintain abstinence from other meals and activities that may please them. Good Friday is a day without a mass. Instead, the liturgy of the word and adoration of the cross as a symbol of Christ’s death take place. And late in the evening – Via-sacra, i.e. the Way of the Cross on the streets of the city or village. Holy Saturday – without blessing eggs In Poland, Holy Saturday is associated with the preparation of Easter eggs and blessing of baskets. In Portugal, the Azores, Terceira – there is no such tradition. Holy Saturday is a day of silence, without a mass. Only in the evening, after dusk, do the faithful go to the most important Eucharist in the liturgical year – the Paschal Vigil. The Paschal Vigil. consists, like in Poland, of four liturgies. These are: liturgy of light – a sign of joy; as part of this liturgy, fire is blessed; the liturgy of the word – 9 readings: 7 from the Old Testament and 2 from the New Testament, at the end a solemn Hallelujah is sung; baptismal liturgy – renewal of baptismal vows; Eucharistic liturgy – receiving the Eucharist. Easter Sunday is a time for loved ones On Easter Sunday, the church bells ring as a sign of the Resurrection of Christ, and families gather for a lunch. The traditional Easter dish on Terceira is lamb. And the typical sweet bread massa sovada with egg on top. No one has heard of vegetable salad, eggs with mayonnaise or sour rye soup for breakfast. Everyone knows though that Easter on Terceira is a time for the family. It’s time to meet with loved ones. And giving them chocolate eggs (amendoins doces) in various versions. And in large quantities. Here, too, children eagerly look for eggs and sweets hidden in the home or garden (caça aos ovos), here everyone is also happy to be with their loved ones. You visit family and friends. It’s time to strengthen bonds. Especially since the celebration ends on Sunday, on Monday you already have to go to work. It’s necessary to make up for free Good Friday. And then – Festas do Espírito Santo In fact, Easter on Terceira is an introduction to Festas do Espírito Santo, the celebration of the Holy Spirit. This is a typical tradition for Terceira, which is celebrated to this day. Interested? Read more about it below. And be sure to come see it live! This is my fourth Easter on Terceira Each one was different. Once I made a typical Polish Easter breakfast for my friends from Terceira. They were so surprised by the amount of dishes with eggs! Yes, yes, Polish Easter is full of eggs. I once had a Polish-Spanish-Italian breakfast and an opportunity to learn about the traditions in other countries. My colleagues even prepared Easter eggs! And last year I spent Easter Sunday very actively with friends on the trail. 8000 steps passed at the first hill. Practically like Duracella bunnies. Now we have 2020 and the coronavirus stage Everything is closed, and from 9 to 13 April in Portugal no one can move between municipalities. On Terceira, too. Whoever lives in Angra cannot go to Prai at this time – and vice versa. The point is that people don’t go to Easter to their families and don’t infect each other. This year, for the first time, my Easter on Terceira will be in closed building. Like all other days at the moment. But I already have a sour rye soup in a package, I’m prepared! And besides having the sour soup, I also have a hope that the situation we’re in will soon improve. So that we can celebrate the last Sundays of Festas do Espírito Santo. I wish that for you and myself.

Azores – which island to go

One of the questions you ask me regularly is “Azores – which island to go?” I understand that each of us has limited time and possibilities, so we want to choose what’s the best for us. Let me guide you in this article „Azores – which island to go” through the Azorean islands so that you can check which destination is for you. Or – which destination is for you now. Later there may be others. You must have heard that each Azorean island is different. I won’t pretend that it’s not like that. Each island really is different. Each has its atmosphere, each has something specific to offer. What is common for them, are the Atlantic Ocean, greenery and volcanoes. And variable weather. You can experience 4 seasons in one day in the Azores, do you already know about it? You have to be prepared for everything. (On the day when I’m writing it, I hung a towel behind my house, for it to dry. The sun was shining and there was strong wind. At some point, I heard big noise. I went close to the window – it was raining. A 3-minute torrent. I guess my towel was safer in the bathroom.) There are 9 islands in the Azores. They are located about 1500 km from the Portuguese coast and scattered in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance of about 650 km. They are all seismically active and all extremely interesting. I know all of them and I can see well that the statement that each island is different is fully justified. So, should we make a small trip around each of the islands? Terceira – go inside the volcano and celebrate holidays that don’t exist in any other place in the world Of course, Terceira goes first. Why? Because I live here and I love this island. This is the first Azorean island I got to know and the first one I fell in love with. The ubiquitous greenery absolutely captivated me. And this peace, this warmth. And a huge dose of joy in the air. For me – the perfect combination. I’ve heard lately that somebody made a good publicity to Terceira, claiming that there’s nothing on it. Thanks to this, there are no random tourists here, only those who are really curious about the world. They arrive – and quickly begin to wonder why they arrived only for x days, not twice as much. So what is so unique in Terceira? There is the Algar do Carvão volcano, unique on a global scale. In this volcano, you can enter the volcanic chimney. There are only three such volcanoes in the world, of which only two are open to visitors. One of them is in Terceira. The Azores are volcanic islands, so there is no shortage of landscapes full of volcanic cones on Terceira. The island’s highest peak, Serra de Santa Bárbara (1021 m a.s.l.), from which most of the island can be seen, is an active volcano. You can also visit the lava tube Gruta do Natal, watch the fumaroles in Furnas do Enxofre, look at Terceira Rift, take a bath in natural rock pools, e.g. in Biscoitos. And after the bath, drink wine from the local vineyard. Terceira – these are happy cows living with ocean views, delicious cheese and trails full of endemic plants. (The university is full of researchers from around the world who are coming to Terceira to study plant species endemic for the Azores and for Terceira itself.) This is the island’s historic capital, Angra do Heroísmo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s delicious Donas Amélias, local alcatra and freshly removed from the rocks lapas. Terceira is also a paradise for water sports enthusiasts – diving, snorkeling, sailing, SUP, kayaking, coasteering. Plus, watching whales and dolphins, and on land – canyoning and an rope park. You can lie down on a cliff and do nothing – or you can get really tired. Whatever you prefer. Terceira means holidays that are not celebrated anywhere else It is said that there are 8 islands and one entertainment park in the Azores. This entertainment park is Terceira. People here love to have fun. Maybe that’s why traditions that are nowhere else in the world have survived to this day. This is where you can take part in the Festas do Espírito Santo, i.e. the celebration of the Holy Spirit. This is where you can see people gathering for touradas à corda, often without even seeing the bull. They focus on the so-called „Quinto touro”, that is the „fifth bull” – the party. It is on Terceira that the largest concentration of amateur theaters in the world in Portuguese takes place, i.e. the bailinhos carnival performances (read more HERE and HERE) – the only such tradition in the whole world. After all, it’s on Terceira where you can take part in the largest profane festival in the Azores, Sanjoaninas. There are enough things to do, the calendar is bursting at the seams. But if you prefer peace and quiet, there will always be a place for you in the bosom of nature. In the middle of nowhere. With a view for the lush green volcanic hills, the calming checkerboard of fields and pastures, and the intensely blue ocean. Unmixed blessing. And for this I value Terceira. I know I wrote a lot about Terceira But this is a place I know very well and that’s why I know how much it offers. And no, I do not urge you to come here;) And I do not urge you to visit this island with me 😉 That’s why I’m moving on to other islands, which are also amazing! São Jorge – take a dip in the natural rock pool in a fajã and try the local cheese São Jorge is an island that pleases your eyes even before you land on it. It is said to be a lying dragon. And

Tourada à corda – bulls in Terceira

Tourada à corda, or a story about bulls running on the streets I was with a Polish friend who was on Terceira on Erasmus, on a tourada. He spotted someone in a Legia shirt in the crowd (Legia is a Polish football team). He told me: „Milena, look, there’s a guy in Legia’s shirt!” I wasn’t too conscious so I asked him what Legia’s shirt looks like. He explained, I spotted the man he was talking about and after a moment of hesitation we said: „Let’s go!” Nearby, there was a tasca (it’s kind of a foodtruck, seen here mainly at touradas and other special events), in which our countrymate was ordering something to drink. We told him „Good afternoon” and started a conversation. „What brought you to Terceira?” „I came to Terceira especially to see the bulls!” – answered our interlocutor. He amazed us enormously. We listened to his story: „I learned last year that there were bull runs in the Azores, and I wanted to see them. So I bought a ticket to the Azores and flew, but I got to São Miguel. And it wasn’t until I got there when I learned that I should have gone to Terceira. This year I came here.” I was very surprised that someone flew through half of Europe and half of the Atlantic Ocean in order to see how bulls run in the streets, but as I thought later about the reactions of various friends of mine to this phenomenon – I stopped being surprised. Touradas à corda are definitely one of Terceira’s distinguishing features. Bulls on the street are normal here At least from May 1 to October 15. During this period, touradas take place almost every day in one or more places. This means that the bulls, which are normally crowded in fields and pastures (right next to the cows, which are more numerous than people in the Azores), go out „into the street”. And they are more or less willing to meet the crowd of people gathered especially for them. Tourada à corda is an event that unites the community It’s a reason to meet, talk, spend time together. Lost wanderers will find a place on someone’s wall or even a yard. At this time, there are no differences between people – everyone wants to be safe and have the best perspective. To meet friends, laugh, hold your breath. Stay with each other in this exciting moment. What is the tourada à corda? Okay, so what’s the point? Well, the tourada à corda means bulls running along the street, held on a rope by two groups of 3-5 men each, called pastores (shepherds). The bull is usually mature and experienced in battle (although there are also younger and unfamiliar with the subject), and pastores – tough and hungry for adrenaline. And dressed in white shirts, gray or black pants and black hats. Daredevils annoy bull often equipped with umbrellas or sheets, and the entire spectacle is watched by the people gathered in the surrounding courtyards and fences. How to behave on tourada Before I mention the tradition of quinto touro, which is associated with the great hospitality of the inhabitants of Terceira and the unification of the community, maybe a few words about how to behave on tourada and what technical issues related to it look like. First of all – take care of your safety If your health and life are valuable to you, then you better watch out. Check in advance exactly where and when the tourada is taking place and appear there at least half an hour earlier. Tourada can be an exciting but also dangerous event. From the technical point of view – insurance doesn’t cover close meetings with a bull. If something happens to you, it is only your fault, so it’s better to take care of yourself in advance and find a place where you will definitely be safe. Second of all – leave the car away Leave the car far away (usually there will be no more places nearby anyway, all surrounding roads will be blocked) and come to the tourada by foot. Why? Well, so that by any chance your car doesn’t become interesting for a bull. No insurance will cover this for you. Tourada should not start if there are vehicles on its route, but it’s better not to risk it. Third of all – find a suitable place The bull usually runs along a street about 500 m long. If you want a good view, you have to find a place either along this street, on a safe (high!) wall or behind a fence. Most fences are protected with boards at this time – this applies to both private properties and tascas, i.e. the foodtrucks mentioned above, which are extremely popular during touradas. (Digression – you will buy in tascas beer, local liqueurs and aguardente, i.e. local moonshine, as well as bifanas, i.e. buns with a cutlet – the most popular local fast-food. And you will find peanuts, olives and lupine grains to be eaten. The owners of the tascas often offer their guests beer and don’t like „no” as an answer). If you don’t know where to hide – ask someone. Even if (s)he doesn’t speak English, (s)he’ll show you a safe place anyway. And if the bull is already on the street, and you haven’t found your place yet – stay where you are (as long as it’s not at the bull’s route). At the end of the bull’s „route” there’s a policeman and three white lines. Stay behind the third, which means a safety zone. Of course, unless the bull breaks from the rope etc. etc., but that’s another story. Fourth of all – listen to the sound signs Four bulls take part in the tourada, but they are not released at the same time. All bulls wait in their cages for their turn and are released one by one. Letting the bull